![]() ![]() Btw, is that supposed to happen? Also is the factory color of the slave light blue or are there oem ones painted that way too? I'm wondering if the slave is the original one and the trans swap i got was a fairly lightly used one. Nonetheless, It now looks like a picture of an old worn out one I have seen on here, the boot is loose and stretched looking and the push rod pulls/falls out of the slave. Probably it is a bad slave problem I'm having now because when the bearing went, the vibration or whatever happened when the bearing seized, or me driving it that way for less than a quarter mile in second gear, must have damaged the slave cylinder. I understand what it does or is supposed to do.mine doesn't. How do I know if the fork broke with the trans installed? I'm at a loss here but have a nice rainy day to invest in her tomorrow. What is the procedure for changing the fork if that is my prob? I'm sure I can find it in the archives somewhere but was really wonderin if I should just take the trans out again so I can see what is really goin on in there. I'm glad to find out there is spring although now I'm leaning toward a bad fork as stealthee stated. Although I am worried the the fork seems loose as hell which is why I asked if there was supposed to be a spring behind it to take up that slack. I think at this point from what I know and what I have been told it should be just a slave issue. I'm pretty sure the trans,fork, bearing and everything with that are ok so I'm hoping not to have to pull the trans again. If I touch the pedal it drops to the floor, if I pick it all the way up it stays. As far as the pedal is concerned that is the least of my problems as I'm sure that's only a bleeding issue, although the pedal spring you spoke of seems to be broke as well. It seemed to hold that pressure but not make any difference to the fork problem I'm having. ![]() As of yet I havn't had the opportunity to properly bleed the slave and see if it holds pressure to see if it is shot, although on sunday while opening the slave bleeder and pumping the clutch I got it to suck down about 2 reservoirs before finally getting fluid and not air. If i pry the fork in towards the plate with a pry bar and rock the car while in gear I can't get it to roll, thus the disc isn't releasing. It seems to me and I was told by a decent mechanic that the bearing and fork should be tight to the plate not loose and floppy. If I said it backwards it was only in haste as I know the logistics of how a hydraulic clutch works. If anyone might have an idea of what might be missing or what I need to get back on the road I sure would appreciate any info! Thanks in advance for any and all help! Shawn I am wondering if maybe there is supposed to be a spring behind the fork and bearing that might have been destroyed when the bearing went and I had no idea should even be there! I am a carpenter by trade but know my way around a wrench pretty well as bargain beaters usually require alot of fixing! This is the first fwd trans I have ever dealt with and thankfully someone postsed a great pulling the trans step by step that really helped when pulling the axels and hubs and shocks and whatnot. Now, the problem I currently have is there seems to be no resistance on the fork that the slave pushes. While I had the tranny out I tested the slave by pumping the fork and it shsot fluid out the line so I figured all was a-ok. So long story short I bought a new clutch,plate and bearing, and installed it and put it back together. When I dropped the tranny I confirmed that the bearing had exploded so to speak. My asumption was the throwout bearing went thus causing the clutch not to disengage. I then took the car about a half mile up my residential road and when making a 4th to 2nd downshift rounding the corner from a light I heard a pop(bang,clunk) and the clutch pedal stuck to the floor, however the car was still in gear! I happened to be only around the corner from my boss' shop so I pulled it in and after looking at it a little further realized the pedal wasn't stuck, only seemed to be disconnected. The squealing noise had gotten considerably worse and when I shut off the car it had a hard time starting almost as if the clutch was only half disengaging, as well as the engine sounding like it had no compression. After making it back to my house I realized that every time I'd push the clutch in it would drop about 1k rpm's. On a recent trip I noticed it stalling when pulling up to stoplights if I didn't keep it revved up. I own a '96 3k with 160k and a used trans swap at 140k and a clutch swap at 150k, That being said for the last month or so I have heard a squealing when idling with clutch out(throwout bearing) presumably. ![]()
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